Wiring up the GM 10SI Alternator

The large “BATT” terminal which gets connected to your battery positive. Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped. And a dual terminal connector. Repair pig-tails for this connector available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if pulling the alternator from a vehicle. Marked with a “1” on the case This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light. For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series with a switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. If the regulator is damaged, the 1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light.

Wiring and Sensors

How to Change an Alternator When a vehicle’s alternator is functioning properly, it will put out between 13 and 18 AC volts that power the electronics and ignition system while recharging the battery. But, if it delivers less than 13 volts, the alternator will fail to keep the battery recharged. You can save money when you replace your alternator by doing it yourself and following the steps below. Steps Disconnect the positive battery cable.

It should be red. It will be a minimum of 2, and no more than 4, bolts depending on your make and model.

Mar 07,  · check for voltage drops across alternator grd and insulated circuits. With vehicle running turn on all electriacal loads; put voltmeter put red lead on alternator output terminal and black lead on positive battery post.

Telephone For those states or countries that require a ‘lights on’ driving situation, don’t touch the actual glass of the bulb. One side of the condensor should be unsoldered. I would recommend the side opposite the HT turret on the slip ring. Primary low tension resistance as measured from the amrature core to the wires that you just unsoldered shuld be approximately 0.

Secondary high tension resistance measured from armature core to slip ring brass should be – Ohms.

TOOLS for BMW Airhead motorcycles

What used motor should you use? As David discussed, his first version of a home built generator used a vertical shaft lawn mower engine which are very easy to find. These mowers can be had for a song and can be found just about anywhere.


Originally Posted by dirtinla I understand how to wire up the 3 wire alternator. The number 1 wire goes to a resistor or dash light and is suppose to glow when not charging. That wire goes to a dash light. The Dash light has 2 terminals one for neg and one for positive. This is my question: When I plug it into the light I need to know if the other connector goes to ground or hot pos. It will have two wires coming from it. It does not make any difference which wire connects to the 1 wire coming from the alternator.

Hooking up alternator, what wires where

Moreover, at idle the situation is much worse, with the alternator putting out only a fraction of its rated capacity at low rpm. In fact, when electronic ignition made its debut as a production system, Chrysler had already switched to solid-state electronics in the charging system with the electronic voltage regulator and the corresponding dual-field alternator. For racers who wanted to retrofit to the new ignition system, a race-only, constant-voltage regulator was offered through Direct Connection now Mopar Performance to make their ignition system compatible with the old charging system.

These days, handling the electrical load with power-hungry aftermarket components, such as high-powered ignitions, fuel pumps, electric fans, and the like, will tax the stock charging system well beyond its output, so you may find yourself asking for jumper cables at the next cruise night. OE Mopar alternators were continuously upgraded throughout the years, both in max-rated capacity and low-speed charging ability.

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I checked around and also learned that since a larger alternator is not straining as hard to put out the same amount of amperage as a smaller alternator might, it works less and lasts longer. I searched the internet and found plenty of 3G alternator upgrades documented, but I was confused, especially with the wiring even though it is simple and did not find one for our trucks.

A couple of people were interested in a write up, so here goes! There are countless reasons to upgrade, and I am not here to sell you on them. If you are considering this upgrade, then you most likely have already researched the 3G alternator and where they come from. I got mine out of a Taurus hint if you do not know where they come from.

If you want to do the upgrade, you will need beside the tools: There are a few different ways to go about the upgrade, and I do not know if mine is best, but it is simple and straight forward.

Lambretta Works Tech Center

This page is an explanation of the theory of operation behind the alternator and the generator. If you know how these critters work already, then this won’t matter much to you. If they are nothing short of alchemy and you need to work on or need to modify your charging system – then this page is a must-read for you. I wrote this as a side-bar to my work on various projects, see the High Amp Alternators for older GM’s and Alternator Conversions for GM’s articles for more details on each area.

Each section describes a basic component and how it works. My experience and thus this page is heavily tilted toward GM vehicles, so if your manual says different things for your car, trust it instead of me.

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Fleischer Before we get into the meat of this article, here an alphabetical list of terminology. You can entirely skip this longish section if you have no sense of humor right now Air compressors are often used with an Air Wrench see next item. A prime purpose of compressor ownership is to tempt fate by seeing how much pressure a tire can hold. Compressors are also used with a hand-nozzle to blow small parts into corner areas where they can not be found.

This is always accompanied at the same time with a loud expression of such as “Oh Jesus” Some loud expressions are not publishable in family media. Rounding one off leads to increased vocabulary practice. A device that produces an electrical short that allows ‘welding rods’ to be stuck to the surface until they glow red. The operator wears a hood he cannot see out of. An additional feature is that stuck welding rods cause the welding machine to hum a musical tune.

Alternator Wire:

Silverado Alternator not putting out proper volts – Already changed the alternator Since I have owned the truck the volt gauge would always be over 14 when running, and with a meter I would get about Now my gauge is under 14 and I get

This provides a direct signal from the MegaSquirt ® EFI controller to the PWM idle valve. Note that the transistor on the V3 main board is NOT sufficient to drive a .

Some of these are original, most are “gleaned” from others a cut-paste reminders You will need to provide detail info. Run the engine at about RPM, and the voltage at the battery should be It goes down at higher temperature, so if it’s in the 80’s or 90’s, you may only get to If it’s low, remove the left body panel side cover and about half way up the vertical frame section behind the motor, you will find a plug that has 3 white with a blue? Inspect this for burned wiring.

If you find a lead that’s been overheated, you can cut the plug out, and connect the wiring directly by twisting one stator lead and one regulator lead together, and then soldering them and taping them. It should be equal, and if one pair is obviously lower, you have a bad stator.

GM 3 wire alternator idiot light hook up

The 9 cap is available at your local GM dealer. Ask for AC Delco type RC32 part and a 10 cap is available at most autoparts store under a Stant part number , if they don’t have it, have them order it for you. The lower pressure rated caps are not carried by the store much but they are available. Wright One item that makes the radiator leak is using the wrong Pressure Cap. Should be 9 pounds no greater than 10 pounds.

Aug 23,  · Hey guys! So my dad picked up what looks to be a really nice gas. Previous owner removed generator and regulator and installed an alternator but doesn’t have it hooked up.

The following instructions are for creating a MegaSquirt to Relay Board cable. It is for those who are creating their own harness. With both boxes mounted, measure the distance between them from DB connector to DB connector – this will be the length that you will cut the individual wires. If you are not using a Relay Board, allow enough length in each of your wires to reach the target component.

It is often better to be too long and trim afterwards, than to be too short and have to splice additional lengths on. For a Relay Board cable, you can move both heat shrink pieces to the center of the wire length, and then twisting the center of the wire with a few twists to hold the heat shrink in place, so that it does not fall off the wire or run down while soldering the connection. For a pigtail, you can slip the heat shrink tubing on later. Orient them so that both are facing the same way, with pins 1 – 19 closest to you.

You will definitely want something to hold the connector, since as you attach more wires it wants to move around more, while at the same time you have less room to solder.